Tahitian Pearls

Tahitian pearls are renowned as one of the most sought-after pearls the world over for their dark luster, for which they are called Tahitian black pearls. The pearls produced by the black-lipped oyster, Pinctada Margaritifera that thrives in the seas of Tahiti, are not all black at all. Even the finest "black pearls" have green undertones and are called "peacock green".

Tahitian black pearls typically have undertone colors ranging from blue, gold, pink, silver, reddish brown, and reddish purple called "aubergine", which is French for eggplant. Black pearls with overtones are considered valuable and may be exist in a myriad of combinations. Moreover, Tahitian black pearls are present in a wide array of body colors, with black, blue, brown, gray, and green as the predominant basic color.

Tahitian Pearls Classifications

Diameter

When Tahitian cultured pearls are harvested, pearl farmers immediately perform initial sorting and discarding of rejects – despite the rarity of pearls, some need to be discarded due to defects in color, shape, surface luster or when a pearl suffer abrasion. Once the pearl farmer is finished sorting, he then classifies them according to shape, diameter, and quality. With the hundreds of pearls produced by the black-lipped oyster, sieving the pearls is the best method for grouping.

Tahitian black pearl diameter generally ranges between 8 and 14mm, although some pearls can grow to about 16mm, and very rare 18mm. The biggest pearl diameter found thus far is 21mm.

Shape

At the production stage of making Tahitian pearl jewelry, Tahitian pearls are in classified according to shape that range from round, semi-round, ringed, baroque, and semi-baroque. For most artists, it becomes hard to favor one shape over another since shape purely entails the element of design. It is not surprising to look at a pearl as unappealing when not worn as jewelry, as it will soon transform into an item of beauty when placed as a component of a beautifully-crafted jewelry.

Round Tahitian pearls, with less than 2% in diameter variation rate as the most sought-after due to its rareness, though you can have irregularly shaped pearls for fun designs at a lesser cost.

Quality

Three elements define the quality of Tahitian pearls: nacre thickness, luster, and surface. Tahitian pearls ideally have a coating (or nacre) that is 0.8mm thick. During production, nacre thickness suffers from abrasion and makes the pearl lose its value. However, if a pearl had thick nacre from the beginning, you can be assured of a luster that will last through time. The Tahitian black jewelry industry withholds from exportation any pearls with thinner nacres. These pearls do not go out of the French Polynesia region.

Luster is the quality of light reflections from the surface of pearls. Pearls that reflect bright and sharp light are considered to have high, or very high luster, while those with diffused or weak light reflections are known as "dull". Tahitian pearls can compete with those grown in Japan in terms of the intensity of light reflections. When it comes to Tahitian pearls, luster is the most invaluable factor of beauty.

The surface of Tahitian black pearls are graded A, B, C, and D. "A" quality pearls are free of abrasions and are marred only by a ripple (or indentation) or two that is remedied by drilling holes on the spot. "B" quality pearls are those marred only in a concentrated area that is not more than a third of the entire surface, but still possesses an average or bright luster.

"C" quality pearls are those whose concentration of abrasions is not more than two-thirds of the surface, and with an average luster. Pearls of this grade are still found to be attractive when one considers the girth, dark overtones, and gemstones used with making C-graded Tahitian black pearl jewelry. "D" quality pearls, meanwhile, are those that suffered light imperfections on more than two-thirds of the surface but with a clear absence of deep imperfections.

The next time you're shopping for Tahitian pearls, make sure to remember how to classify the best from the worst.